Teak & mahogany interior treatment, when your boat goes down: After the boat is stabilized, engines pickled and water removed.
While waiting for the surveyor: Remove all moisture from the interior, best bet use a dehumidifier.
Close all the openings,
After the initial first three days, rather than run all the time put it on a timer in order to allow you to control when the water is removed and dumped.
Use the dehumidifier until you remove all the water out of the boats interior wood, may take a week, may take a month, depends on the dehumidifier and amount of moisture in the core of the boat.
If insurance is taking care of the damage, the above process will reduce the damage that occurs after the boat is re floated.
If you are handling the clean up:
Several things have to be removed.
If you have carpet – Pull it out and throw it away,
If the floor is wooden – paint it with a stain blocker like Kiltz, use the oil base. Make sure it is sealed.
If the Bilge overflowed you need to decontaminate the interior completely before you begin the cleanup.
You need an anti-bacterial product that is applied to all surfaces.
Easiest way is to purchase a garden pump sprayer, set it on mist (use gloves, a mask & goggles) and spray the entire interior and all compartments, including the ceiling lightly. Kill the germs.
The best product for this is the same product used by hospitals to decontaminate and clean operating rooms. A Quat. Call a local chemical retailer (janitorial supply) and purchase a small quantity of almost any quat.
(Quats do several things, they are a sanitized, deodorizer, mildew killer, degreaser, & cleaner. Read the directions before using, and follow them.
After spraying close up and leave for a couple days, when you come back in the odor should be going away, open hatches and let the fresh air circulate.
You know what to do in the compartments below deck. But how to get that ring out of the wood where the water was contaminated with overflowed Bilge, diesel fuel and battery acid. There are several solutions.
Rip it all out and replace it with new.
Take it down piece by piece and sand off about 1/16th.
Clean it. Cleaning it is quicker, but more elbow grease and close quarter work is needed. Items you need.
- Hydrogen Peroxide.
- Baking soda
- A couple large sponges
- A scrub brush
- A tile & grout corner scraper
- #3 steel wool & 80 grit sandpaper.
- If solid wood, a palm osciliating sander. 60, 150 & 220 grit paper.
- A pail or bucket
- Hot water.
- Acid resistant gloves.
First find a spray head that fits the Hydrogen Peroxide bottle, use the large bottles.
If the ring is black, and was allowed to settle for many days or weeks. (As the picture show in the upper left)
On solid wood, use the sander to remove the top layer.
On veneer you’re just going to have to scrub it out.
The process consists of:
Spray the area to be cleaned with Peroxide, keep the area wet during the entire process by continually spraying it .
Spray the brush, add baking soda, fairly heavy, scrub the black area. work the area well with the brush making sure that you can see both the peroxide and the backing soda on the surface, let set for ten minutes and spray and scrub again, keep the surface wet for twenty minutes, (some areas may require more scrubbing and soaking)
Using the sponge and hot water, clean the area scrubbed, removing all traces of the baking soda and filth.
Once it dries it may be completely bleached out, in most cases only the black is gone.
If any traces remain use the steel wool wet or the sandpaper working with the grain, lightly, not heavy.
Let it dry overnight.
Now you’re probably going to have to match the color in order to make the color uniform.
Minway makes numerous penetrating stains, the best for boats that can be mixed to match most teak and mahogany colors regardless of the age is Cherry and Red mahogany.
What you’re going to have to do is start with 100% cherry and maybe 1-2% Red mahogany, keep working with the color till you get it right, make yourself a pad of cloth (small).
Once mixed rub a little into the area to stain (working with the grain) basically brush down with the pad, very little stain until you get the color right.
Keep a cloth and some mineral spirits along side just in case you get the color too dark , too red or too cherry. Wipe it off and start over.
You can get the color right. Blend the color into the existing finish color.
Once the color dries, you can either leave it alone or finish it with anything you like from Danish finishing oil, polyurethanes to varnish & lemon oil.
Materials are obtainable from a variety of sources
- Home Depot, Lowe’s, Walmart etc,
- except the Quat (janitorial supply)
- if you access to WW Grainger they carry dehumidifiers as well as others.